Where to spend the night in Dagestan?

We go through the Dagestan village, selflessly photograph the rickety fences, bright gates, some kind of firewood, trucks and turkeys. Suddenly a woman comes out of one of the houses, hands on her hips:

- And why are you shooting everything here? Who are you?

“Well, journalists,” we inform cautiously.

- Where else are the journalists from? - a woman sounds demanding. It’s interesting how they relate to journalists ... And do they consider everyone to be corrupt ... Will they really beat me?

“From Moscow,” we reply with a sigh.

- Ahh, so come on tea or something to drink? (how many times in 4 days in Dagestan I heard this phrase ???)

Dagestan village is full of surprises. One of these was a guest house in the village of Siuh. No, they called us to drink tea in the wrong place. Tea was called to drink in a completely different place, and the whole crowd was called at once. And they would have drunk, if not for the persistent desire of our attendants to fit into the schedule.

And in Siuh we drove a few hours past the Sulak canyon and other natural beauties. Actually, it’s a shame to go to Dagestan and not go to villages and mountains. Even more offensive, climbing into the mountains, hurry down to catch the dark in the hotel. And what remains? You can’t open a hotel in every village, but consider that there are no cities in the mountains.

For such cases, as I understand it, a whole program of guest houses in the villages of Dagestan was developed at the state level.

The guest house is a museum, an interactive show, a restaurant, and a hotel all in one. On the rights of hostesses and organizers - local grandmothers. And taking into account the fact that the tourist flow in Dagestan is not at all great, all this happens is extremely sweet and natural. Without a raid of ostentatiousness and gallantry.

So what is going on?

Inside the guest house in Siuha, Khunzakh district, there is a whole hackle museum. With Dagestan clothing, dishes, interior. In a huge jug they knock down oil. Fire bursts in the oven. Grandmothers are pleased with the guests, as they would have enjoyed any visit to the village.

A large family gathers in the living room, parses wool, sings songs. If you ask, they can dance. The difference in the behavior of women is very noticeable. Grandmothers are cheerful, lively, laughing, just not hugging with us. Women are smiling and looking at the guests with interest. Girls are sitting downcast. Hierarchy in action.

But the main event for terminally hungry tourists is lunch. And we are waiting for a traditional rural lunch. On the floor, on the pillows. Potatoes, meat, kurdyuk, khinkal, sausages, cheese, herbal tea and, as the crown of creation of local grandmothers, is a local energetic urbec. Honestly, I did not dare to try. From the description, I realized that this is a fermented grain with something. The smell confirmed the theme of fermentation. Horror. But, they say, the product is legendary.

Of course, what is happening is a little played up. Museum. But at the same time bright, colorful and vibrant.

In general, if I were planning a route around Dagestan now, I would certainly stop at such places at least a couple of times. To get up in the morning and see the endless distances outside, go out and go where donkeys shake their ears, where something of an uncertain appearance blooms, just go and admire. And then have breakfast, get in the car and continue on the road, in no hurry to return to urban civilization.

I guess I’m not very mistaken if I assume that in any village you can ask to spend the night. But in the version of the guest house, the obvious plus is the ability to agree in advance to actually reserve a seat. I know that for most people it is important to know exactly how and where their next evening of wanderings will end.

You can find a list of all (or almost all of our Siyuhsky I’ve found there) guest houses in Dagestan on the website of the Ministry of Tourism of Dagestan, right here, look for the "Guest House Register". Contact persons and telephones are also indicated there. Arrange a meeting in advance (especially in order to implement a hearty lunch).