Borobudur

The world's largest Buddhist temple complex Borobudur is located in the center of Java, not far from the old capital of Indonesia - Yogyakarta. Scientists date the construction of the complex to the 7th-9th century A.D. and suggest that the construction took, according to various estimates, from forty to one hundred years.

Around 1006, the eruption of the neighboring volcano Merapi happened, people left this land, and the temple was drowned in ash and overgrown with jungle for many centuries.

In the 18th century, the upper terraces of the complex were slightly noticeable, but the participants of the Dutch colonial expeditions were too concerned about the search for treasures and, not finding anything of value in the stones, moved on without even mentioning Borobudur in notes and diaries.

Only in 1814 did mention of Borobudur appear - during the Anglo-Dutch war, Governor Stamford Ruffles (incidentally, the founder of Singapore) became interested in the overgrown hill that the Dutch dug up. And having sent the expedition, I found only a mountain of stones with a fanciful ornament.

After a brief occupation of the British, the island returned to the Dutch again, and a certain Cornelius gathered people and began clearing the monument.

By 1835, the upper part of the complex was clearly visible.

Meanwhile, during the 19th century, the complex was actively plundered for souvenirs. Even the King of Siam, being here on an excursion, did not disdain to snatch eight bull teams from the bas-relief and the only surviving statue of the guardian of the temple.

Reconstruction continues today, but most of the Buddhas remain headless - they were also stolen for souvenirs in private collections.

The first successful capital restoration of Borobudur took place in 1907-1911, and the complex acquired a solemn and impressive appearance.

First of all, the drainage structure improved and the general appearance was restored. Borobudur was erected on a hill, so long-term work was needed to protect the monument from soil erosion, collapse, corrosion and damage from an all-penetrating jungle, otherwise the temple could fall apart at any time.

The only solution would be to completely dismantle the structure, strengthen the hill and complete restoration. This huge work was carried out in 1973-1984 under the auspices of UNESCO. The monument was dismantled on a pebble and recreated in accordance with the sketches of the 19th century. Now Borobudur complex is one of the World Heritage sites.

In the 20th century, the complex was subjected to several earthquakes and even a bomb attack - in 1985, Muslim extremists slightly damaged the monument. But the Indonesians believe that the Buddha spirit soaring above Borobudur will not allow the temple to disappear from the face of the earth.

Borobudur was erected as a huge stupa, made in the form of a mandala.

Mandala - a complex geometric model, sacred in Buddhism, the image of the scheme of the universe in accordance with Buddhist ideas. The five lower tiers of the complex symbolize the Buddhist model of the world.

On the upper tier on three circular terraces are 72 small stupas around a large central one. Each stupa is in the shape of a bell. Inside the stupas are statues of Buddha.

The base of the stupa is square, with a side of 118 m.

The pilgrims have to make the way to the very top of the temple, moving in a spiral counterclockwise through all eight tiers of the complex.

Moreover, the entire path will be about five kilometers. Considering that each tier must be circumvented seven times, an impressive distance is obtained.

But few people go this way, and with all the desire it is problematic to do it now - restoration is underway on some lower tiers, and the through passage is closed to visitors.

We flew to Yogyakarta from Denpasar. From the airport, a taxi to Borobudur cost 200 thousand rupees - about $ 22. Drive forty kilometers (almost an hour). The taxi driver even offered to bring us first to Prambanan, and then to Borobudur - for all 250 thousand. But the first thing we went to settle in Magelang is a town 12 kilometers from Borobudur. We got to the temple in the late afternoon.

The usual entrance ticket for foreigners costs $ 20, for Indonesians - $ 3. As with us, however.

We arrived an hour before the close, but did not have time to see anything, because hundreds of Indonesians occupied us with a request to take pictures. The impression was that they did not come to see the temple, but to catch a white man (preferably several different specimens) and make money with him.

At five o'clock the lovely guards begin to gently, but persistently push the visitors to the exit.

Particularly frisky is caught.

In connection with this situation, it was decided to come here again early in the morning. At the front desk of the Manohara Hotel, which is located directly on the territory adjacent to the temple, we arrived at 4 a.m. Here at this time, a separate group of visitors is gathering, who for $ 45 climb Mount Borobudur to meet the dawn. In the annex to the ticket is a sarong, a sticker and a flashlight.

The group leaves the hotel at 4:30. Walk about ten minutes. While they have risen, it is already getting light.

In principle, you can enter here for free if you carefully climb over the fence in the dark and dash to the temple. And at five in the morning to mix with the first visitors.

The lowest level of the complex, called Kamadhatu and representing the world of passions, has not been preserved in the form of bas-reliefs. 160 images on the topic of sensual manifestations have not reached our days, and that they exist, we learn only from ancient manuscripts.

The second level - five tiers with the name Rupadhatu - symbolizes the real world and contains religious subjects. The whole history of Buddhism is reflected in sculptures and 1460 bas-reliefs. It housed 432 Buddha statues (almost none): 104 on the first and second terrace, 88 on the third, 72 on the fourth and 64 on the fifth.

And the three upper round terraces complete this beauty. This is the level of Arupadhatu. At the bottom there are 32 stupas, on the middle - 24, on the top - 16. Inside each - a life-size Buddha. The building is completed by one of the largest stupa - a symbol of eternity.

Of the thirty-two Buddhas of the lower terrace, only thirteen remained intact. There is one open stupa with Buddha on the lower and middle tiers.

Of the twenty-four Buddhas in the middle tier, only four sculptures have heads.

And on the third tier of sixteen stupas, only one has a Buddha with his head, and one stupa is generally empty! I personally counted and spied it.

In the background is the same volcano Merapi, which operates to this day. There he is - he can see how smoking.

The closer the sunrise was, the more magical views were revealed!

It’s good to shoot the morning fog just from above and at dawn!

A fantastic sight!

In a foggy haze, a road gradually appears, along which the first (we do not count) visitors will pass in a couple of hours.

And here is the dawn!

Among those who bought the ticket were several pilgrims. As it turned out, early morning is the only opportunity to pray in relative silence.

At six in the morning ordinary visitors begin to appear. These are mainly schoolchildren.

As we saw the previous night, they are more interested in white people.

Anyone, especially a fair-haired foreigner, will not be ignored by the Indonesians - both adults and children.

I think if each of those who wanted to take a photo gave a thousand rupees, we would have beaten off the tickets :)

Watch the video: Borobudur, Indonesia in 4K Ultra HD (May 2024).