Buenos Aires

At the word "Buenos Aires" images of tango appeared in my head in squares, colored facades of buildings, a huge metal flower, sipping mate, heat-stained Argentines; there was a taste of marbled beef with wine on the summer porches of the cafe ...

Surprisingly, all this turned out to be true! The squares really dance in the evenings of tango. Young and elderly couples: men in ironed trousers and elegant women with closed eyes - they surrender to music, as if stopping time ...

And around there is a chic, pompous, sometimes stinking garbage 15-million-strong metropolis with arrows of avenues, portly winding color blocks, street musicians, flea markets and skyscrapers - the heart of Argentina.

Here every single day you can meet a demonstration with songs and drums - cheerful people! Here, on the banks of the river and very close to the sea, fish is an expensive delicacy, much more expensive than affordable tender beef. Here, wild inflation and the black dollar exchange rate make the lives of ordinary people full of anxieties and worries. Here, despite all the difficulties, under the warm sun it seems that the city exudes happiness.

Welcome to Buenos Aires!

A short video about Buenos Aires

How to get there

Getting to the city of dreams, hot Byres (as Russian travelers affectionately call it) is easier than to the capitals of Bolivia or Paraguay, but still more difficult than to Paris, so beloved here.

If you plan a trip from Russia, then the most realistic way - a plane with a transfer in Europe, Asia or the United States. You can, of course, swim on the ship, but it can call themselves the lucky owners of more money and free time.

If you travel to the main city of Argentina from neighboring Latin American states, then comfortable buses will be a good alternative to air transport.

By plane

Fortunately, there are no direct flights from Russia to Argentina. Why fortunately? Because otherwise you would have to spend almost a day in the air!

And so for our transplant services in Europe, the USA or the Middle East - you can stretch your legs and breathe in fresh air. Or organize a big trip: visit a neighboring Latin American country, and from there to Byres.

Compare current prices for all possible flight options here. Now I will tell you more about each.

Option One: Fly Through Europe

You can offer your services in delivery to Argentina:

Lufthansa. It makes 1-3 flights from Moscow to Buenos Aires daily, usually with 1 change in Frankfurt (but sometimes another change is added in Munich or another German city). Tickets are in the range of 65 000-170 000 RUB round trip.
Air France They boast a huge number of daily flights (from 3 to 10!) Via Paris, Amsterdam (sometimes Sao Paulo or Santiago are also added). The cost of such a ticket is from 65 000 RUB right up to 410 000 RUB!
KLM. It flies 3-6 times a day with a change in Amsterdam or Paris (often makes joint flights with Aeroflot and Air France, with which it is in one alliance). The flight will cost 78 000-100 000 RUB.
Alitalia. With a stop in Rome or Milan 2-3 times a day, you can fly for 80 000-160 000 RUB.
Iberia Flies 3-4 times a day through Madrid, offers tickets for prices from 75 000 RUB to 280 000 RUB.
Air Europa. Tickets for flights of this airline with a change in Madrid cost 75,000-280,000 RUB. Airplanes fly 1-2 times a day.

British Airways. The company’s schedule includes 3-4 flights a day via London or Madrid. The ticket price varies from 68 000 RUB to 230 000 RUB. It should be remembered that with a transfer of less than 24 hours and without changing the airport in Britain, you most likely will not require a visa. But this remains at the discretion of each specific border guard.

Option Two: Transplanting in the Middle East

In my experience, the cost of tickets for airline flights, which I will discuss now, is lower than European, and the quality of service (and the comfort of connecting airports) far exceeds them:

Emirates They make 2-3 flights a day with a stop in Dubai. The flight will cost from 55 000 RUB to 270 000 RUB.
Qatar Airways. For the cost of 80,000-130,000 RUB, they offer 1-2 flights a day through Doha.
Turkish Airlines. Fly through Istanbul (2-3 flights daily). The ticket will cost 62 000-100 000 RUB. One of the best airlines I've flown! A rare airplane food that you can’t just chew on, it’s really delicious! And the service is at a high level: with a night transplant you will be given a hotel for free, with a day one they will arrange a city tour. No, they didn’t pay me for advertising :).

Option Three: Through the States

Attention! This method is only possible with a valid American visa. By prices and carriers:

American Airlines With a change in Madrid and Miami (2-3 flights per day) you will be sent on a flight for 80 000-350 000 RUB.
Delta. Makes joint flights with KLM through Amsterdam and Atlanta 2-3 times a day. The flight will cost from 160 000 RUB to 500 000 RUB!

On sale with most airlines, you can catch tickets for 40 000-50 000 RUB, but this is most often out of season (from April to October).

How to get from the airport to the city

All international flights arrive at Ezeiza International Airport named after Minister Pistarini (Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini, EZE) 30 kilometers from the city.

You can get to Buenos Aires by taxi (from 30 USD) or by city bus number 8.

By taxi

Taxis can be ordered at the counter at the airport with the appropriate name, or go outside and wait exactly 30 seconds - taxi drivers will come running themselves.

By bus

The bus takes about 2 hours, but the trip costs less than 1 USD. But the trick is that to pay for travel you need a special card that can only be bought in the city (costs about 1.5 USD). The card can be given by compassionate departing travelers who no longer need it (I did this). The stop of this bus is very close to the exit, 200-300 meters to the left.

The bus will make many, many stops in the city, including in the center. Either follow the navigation on the navigator, or ask the taxi driver or hotel / hostel staff for the necessary stop. The final station is Retiro Station, from where you can get to anywhere in the city by metro.

Fourth option: a route with a visit to a neighboring Latin American country

For example, you can fly from Sao Paulo, Lima, Santiago, Montevideo and other capitals.

There are many companies in the domestic market:

Aerolineas Argentinas,
LATAM Airlines,
Avianca,
TAME Linea Aerea del Ecuador,
Cubana de Aviación,
Boliviana de Aviación,
Sky Airline,
Conviasa,
Andes Lineas Aereas.

The cost depends on the flight range and varies from 300 USD to 1,500 USD. Yes, forget about cheap European flights between cities. Low-cost airlines have not yet developed here, and the distances are not European at all.

How to get from the airport to the city center

Flights within the continent arrive at the Jorge Newbery Airport, which is located right in the city near the lagoon itself (the landing is very picturesque!).

Despite the location within the city, the airport is 10 kilometers from the center - there is no walking distance, and the nearest stop is one and a half kilometers. The best option is a taxi, which will cost about 5-10 USD.

Car rental at airports

At both airports, you can rent a car and enjoy all the delights of local traffic. I would recommend booking it in advance (you can compare prices and choose the option that suits you on this site), but even if the decision came to you spontaneously, there are always several cars of different classes.

For reference, I’ll say that it will be cheaper to rent a car in the city, and most of all - at the Ezeiza airport.

By train

With the Rail South America tourist train, you can get from Buenos Aires to Lima in 20 days with stops at the most popular tourist destinations: Cuzco, Uyuni and Salta (it costs about $ 6,500).

But, unfortunately, the train does not go in the opposite direction. Therefore, getting to Buenos Aires by train is impossible.

By bus

Unlike the railway, bus service in Latin America is well developed. From neighboring Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay and Chile, getting to Argentina is not difficult.

It takes only time, but the opening species will more than pay off your costs:

From La Paz (Bolivia) with the border crossing to La Chiaca, you need about 40 hours. I would recommend traveling with stops in Uyun (the famous salt desert) and Cordoba (wine and meat!). The ticket price from the border with Bolivia to Buenos Aires will be 130-170 USD depending on the class (plus about 50 USD from La Paz).
From Sao Paulo (Brazil), get a little faster: about 30 hours. Along the way, you can look at the amazing Iguazu Falls. The ticket will cost 90-170 USD.
From Asuncion (Paraguay), the bus through the cozy town of Santa Fe will take about 20 hours, the ticket will cost 80 USD.
From Montevideo (Uruguay) the shortest way. Only 5 hours and 45-55 USD.
From Santiago (Chile), the road will take 20 hours. The best thing to do is to stop in Mendoza, enjoy the beauty of the surroundings and the taste of the best Argentinean wine. Estimated cost of the trip is 115-145 USD.

Buses can be divided into several categories of comfort:

First class, sometimes marked cama, which means a fully folding bed. Such buses may not cost much cheaper than an airplane, but this is a great way to make a night crossing and stay awake the next day. Typically, these buses serve food and drinks.
Second class. The back leans back to 80 degrees (semi-cama). Here you will not be given a blanket, but a film will be shown. In these buses it is comfortable to spend 3-5 hours.
There are still regular buses, but they do not travel long distances, with a maximum of 100 kilometers to a neighboring town.

The routes are served by a huge number of companies:

Cata International (one of the most popular),
Bus de la carrera,
Condor,
Estrella,
Pullman General Belgrano,
Via Tac,
Rodoviaria Tiete,
Central Argentin and others.

You can use the Argentinean Platforma 10 website to view schedules and book tickets for local carriers online.

Buses arrive at the central terminal of Retiro, which is located on the coast of the lagoon near the center. You can get to it from anywhere in the city by public bus.

By car

Wandering along the roads of Latin America for cars is a real pleasure. But there are several important organizational points that you need to remember in order to get from another country to Buenos Aires.

Documents

Crossing the border with Argentina in a rented car has its own characteristics. It is necessary to get a special permit for the car (it costs about 200 USD). And treat this very carefully. Now I’ll tell a story that happened to me.

In Chile, I planned to take a car to Santiago, and to take it to the southernmost city, where it is impossible to drive through the territory of Chile alone because of eternal ice - part of the journey needs to be done along the roads of Argentina. To cross the border, you need a special permission for the car, which I ordered in advance via the Internet when booking a car and confirmed to the intermediary by phone.

But this is Latin America, baby, a country of eternal manna. In the rental office, it didn’t even occur to the Chileans that they couldn’t get to Punta Arenos in the expanses of their home country. If I had not recalled the documents, they would calmly give us a car, and we would be deployed at the very first border.

The problem of preparing permission was complicated by New Year's Eve: the work schedule of institutions became more and more relaxed. And even if they managed to do it, then the question arose of getting it by me ... after all, the route led me south and, although it was quite flexible, did not provide for returning to Santiago a week later and the way back (totaling an extra 2,000 kilometers).

Offered to send by mail. Clerks thoughtfully thought over the schedule of the Chilean mail, delivery time ... I had to clarify that by email :). "Ohhh," the faces of the Chilean clerks brightened, "it is possible!" I breathed a sigh of relief, received a red pickup truck with traces of tic-tac-toe nails on the hood and headed south through the colorful funicular Valparaiso, vineyards and the beautiful Lake District ...

Days passed, but permission did not come ... I was nervous, Chileans were preparing to celebrate the New Year. And so, on December 31, on the last day when I was in places with the Internet (further only untouched by the civilization of Carreter-Astral and several border crossings with Argentina), Santa Claus or Santa Claus presented a gift: permission fell in the mail.

Moral: do not forget to order permission in advance and check the rental office. You can view prices and select a rental agent here.

Crossing the border

This procedure usually takes from 20 minutes (at empty posts in the south of the country) to several hours (in popular places in the north):

All cars line up (for buses a separate line).
The driver prepares a passport, rights (international optional) and all documents for the car, including the same permit.
He enters the building, defends the queue, submits documents to the customs officer.
Usually they do not ask any questions, they just check you in the database and put a stamp (good, all countries are visa-free for Russians).
Theoretically, they may ask to open the trunk and see the salon, but in practice this is rare (just in case, hide food, some of them are not recommended to be imported).
Welcome to Argentina!

Roads

And then your path lies in the capital.

From the pros:

excellent road surface
relatively low toll fees (from 0.2 to 1.5 USD),
not very expensive gasoline (0.5 USD per liter in the north).

Of the minuses:

the distances are big enough, you have to plan a few stops,
large traffic jams may occur at the entrances to large cities,
Argentines cannot be called model drivers (but this is incomparable with Asian chaos).

By ferry

The most interesting way to get to the center of Buenos Aires from neighboring Uruguay is to go through the La Plata Strait by speed boat.

You can choose two options, the first economical and long, and the second more expensive and faster:

From Montevideo, take the bus to the town of Colonia (3-3.5 hours), then catch a ferry, sail for another hour, and you have passed the border between the two states. Tickets (bus plus ferry, bought together) for such a combined route will cost 35-85 USD. From 4-5 flights depart daily, the earliest at 10 am, and the latest at 21:30.

The quick option is a direct ferry from Montevideo, which takes a little more than 2 hours, a ticket costs 105-135 USD. The number of flights per day is the same, only the earliest leaves at 5:30, and the last at 18:15.

In both cases, the operators are three companies:

Buquebus
Colonia Express,
Seacat.

Each of them has a website through which you can book a ticket in advance. And you can buy it at the Montevideo bus station or at the port of Colony, but it should be borne in mind that there may not be tickets in the high season.

hint: Buenos Aires - time is now 10: 00 October 13Difference in hours: Moscow & plus; 6 Kazan & plus; 6 Samara & plus; 7 Yekaterinburg & plus; 8 Novosibirsk & plus; 10 Vladivostok & plus; 13

When is the season. When is the best time to go?

In South America, the seasons are directly opposite to the Russians. At the height of our winter, summer reigns there. And from December to February, the high season begins: hotels and restaurants are crowded, on the streets they celebrate either New Year or carnival, and prices rise 1.5 times.

From May to September, the temperature drops, in the second half of summer there is a lot of rain. But there are practically no tourists, and the whole city can be at your disposal, you just need to be ready for the cool nights, take warm clothes with you.

As always, I advise you to go in the off-season: in autumn or spring, when the weather is already fine, but the cost of travel services has not yet had time to make a leap.

Buenos Aires in the summer

The summer months - December, January and February - it is heat around +30 ° C and in some places stinky garbage. Fortunately, the fresh breeze from the river helps to bear it.

The high season in Buenos Aires is completely different from the summer in Europe, when it is impossible to push through the crowd of tourists. You will have enough personal space and the opportunity to walk freely, looking in any corner you like.

Buenos Aires in the fall

From March to June, residents of Buenos Aires take out sweaters, scarves and eat hot soups, although the weather outside is beautiful: + 20-25 ° C during the day and + 15-20 ° C at night. And no rain.

This is the most wonderful time for a gastronomic trip: the number of fruits and vegetables increases inversely with the decrease in tourists and prices in hotels and cafes.

Buenos Aires in spring

Spring lasts from September to November, similar to autumn. The only exception is not such a wealth of fresh products. But this does not stop you from enjoying the meat and wine that Argentina is famous for.

In spring, in Buenos Aires, lilac and sakura bloom, and the city with its imperial architecture becomes like a fairytale kingdom.

Buenos Aires in winter

Short winters last from July to August. The sun often hides behind the clouds, and the temperature in the daytime is around +15 ° С, and at night it drops to + 5-8 ° С.

You can drink mulled wine without a twinge of conscience in the morning, kick the fallen leaves in the parks and enjoy the desert city.

Buenos Aires - monthly weather

tip: Buenos Aires - weather for the months of January January ± 24.0 February ± 22.9 March ± 20.7 April ± 17.1 May ± 13.8 June ± 10.7 July ± 10.4 August ± 11.6 September ± 13.6 October ± 16.5 November & plus; 19.5 December & plus; 22.3

Areas. Where is better to live

If you have a lot of time (at least 10 days) in Buenos Aires, then feel free to rent an apartment in Belgrano (under the number 1 on the map below) in the north. It is well-maintained and respectable, and a night in a hotel will cost 20-50 USD depending on the stardom.

But if you have only a few days, then it’s a shame to spend even 40 minutes on the road to the main attractions, cafes and shops. Below I will tell you more about which areas are best for travelers.

As soon as you decide on a place and time, prices for rooms in hotels can be clarified here and book a suitable one at the good old Booking. Good offers for apartments and hostels are here.

So, in what areas and why should you settle:

Palermo (2)

This is one of the most fashionable areas, full of bars, restaurants and nightclubs. It also has great shopping and magnificent parks along the coast. The only negative is that the distance to the center is far away (at least an hour's walk), so you will either have to master public transport or use a taxi.

If you want absolute silence outside the window, then this is not your choice either. The cost of a double room in a 3-4 star hotel in this area is 100-150 USD per night.

Recoleta (3)

The area is slightly less rich in entertainment venues, but they are also quite worthy. There are many excellent shops and, most importantly, the famous open-air cemetery museum with the same name.

The main problem is the proximity to Retiro in the east (I will explain why below). But a similar hotel room 3-4 stars can be rented for 60-100 USD.

Retiro (4)

Of the undoubted advantages include proximity to the station and the center. But at the same time, you need to understand that this area is a magnet for strange people, and walking here in the evening can be unsafe.

At the same time, the cost of rooms cannot be called low: from 80 USD to 200 USD for hotels from 2 to 5 stars, respectively.

Montserrat (5)

The very center. Most of the attractions are located here. Many shops and restaurants, but they are inferior to those that can be found in more fashionable areas among local residents.

Here they like to organize processions and demonstrations, homeless people often spend the night. The cost at the same time is not humane: 70-110 USD for different categories of hotels. I would recommend choosing a different area to stay.

San Telmo (6)

There is much more real life here than in neighboring Montserrat. Great flea markets, street musicians, authentic cafes and local designer shops.

True, in this area there are few hotels, but you can find a hostel or apartment. A similar level of service will cost 70-100 USD.

Puerto Madero (7)

The modern promenade with many ultra-fashionable places from the cafe to the museum-ship. Living here is a special chic among both local and tourists.

It is not surprising that the price of a room starts from 200 USD and can easily pass the mark of 400 USD per night.

What are the prices for vacation

Buenos Aires cannot be called a cheap city. If you change the currency at the official rate, then the prices for you will be the same as in Moscow:

A taxi in the city can cost from 10 USD to 20 USD.
Business lunch in a medium-sized institution - 10 USD per person.
Dinner in a good restaurant with wine from 50 USD.
Cappuccino - 6 USD, and alcoholic cocktail - 12 USD.
Milk in the store - 1.2 USD, bread - 0.9 USD.

hint: Cost of food, accommodation, transport and other currency: Euro, € US dollar, $ Russian ruble, rub Argentine peso, $ Prices in restaurants and cafes

Eating (lunch / dinner) in a reasonably priced restaurant	226 rub
Lunch / dinner for two, 3 course, middle class restaurant	902 rub
McMill at McDonald's or similar combo lunch	181 rub

More details

The main attractions. What to watch

Buenos Aires’s areas of interest to travelers span many kilometers. Even a cursory inspection requires at least a couple of days, and so, in order to slowly inspect everything, at least 10 days! I would advise you not to try to grasp the immensity, but to focus on what is interesting to you.

If you've never been to Latin America, drop by at least one cathedral to see sculptures more like dolls. If you love football, then here you will become your man. You can enjoy your favorite game in one of the many stadiums. In short, just have fun like all Argentines!

Top 5

Recoleta Cemetery (Cementerio de la Recoleta) - A must-have item in the program, even if you breathe evenly towards architecture. This is an open-air museum where everyone tried to surpass the tomb of a neighbor. White streets under the bright sun of Argentina are not at all associated with sorrow and death. Here in silence it is very interesting to consider the manifestations of human vanity in the face of eternity.
La Boca District - the exact opposite of the cemetery. A bustling port area with colored facades of houses, bizarre bars and bare-footed children. Once it was the heart of the city, because ships moored here. Now it has become more of an attraction for tourists, but locals still live here, which gives these streets a delightful mood.
Palermo District (Palermo) - Colonial architecture, parks and the best restaurants, bars and places for shopping. A calm, cozy and fashionable area, absolutely a must to visit.
Ateneo Grand Splendid (El Ateneo Grand Splendid) - A chic bookstore at Av. Santa Fe, 1860. Even if you do not like to read, be sure to check here. This masterpiece is located in the building of the former theater, in which the interior is completely preserved. It’s as if you’re in a magical world (to Harry Potter, for example)!
Flower Generica (Floris Genérica). This metal colossus is located in a park near the Recoleta area (Av Pres. Figueroa Alcorta, 2263). At night, the petals close, and in the morning open again. Personally, he impressed me and amused me.

Beaches. Which are better

The beaches in Buenos Aires are not quite what Russian tourists expect them to be. There are three types of them:

La Plata River Coast with City (1)

There are several beaches. Firstly, they are very well-maintained: with sunbeds, umbrellas, sports and children's equipment and other pleasant infrastructure. And at the same time free.

And secondly, it’s impossible to swim with them. Not because it’s cold or dirty (although, yes, it’s cold and very dirty), but because access to water is closed. For between you standing on a clean sand, and muddy brown slurry, which is considered a river, lies a strip of garbage. Enjoy it.

Such beaches can be found in the area of the Children's Park.

Coast of the ecological zone Kostaner-Sur (2)

There is one beach, even with access to water and without mountains of garbage.

But he looks like a sad strip of large rubble.

Beaches by private and public pools

The third and most popular type of beaches. It is here that the natives hang out. On the roofs of high-rise buildings, in the courtyards of private houses with a 90% probability you will find a pool.

But if you are not lucky to know one of the tenants, then you can go to the paid pool and enjoy the sun and clear water there.

Here are just a few of them:

Water Lasch SRL (San Guillermo 5880, Martín Coronado),
Ateneo Felix Marino (C1419GRQ, Habana 4568),
Polideportivo Costa Rica (Avenida de los Constituyentes 3050).

Admission for an adult costs 5-10 USD for the whole day.

Churches and temples. Which are worth a visit

As in other countries of Latin America, the churches of Argentina and Buenos Aires are splendor, monumentality and sculpture-dolls. It seems to me that it is definitely worth visiting several cathedrals:

Orthodox Church of the Holy Troytsi (Inglesia Ortodoxa Rusa de la Santísima Trinidad), Avenida Brasil, 315. It is always interesting to see how native culture takes root in a foreign land. And the familiar glazed dummies of this church are already very welcoming.
Buenos Aires Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires), Calle Rivadavia s / n, 1004. A cathedral in which it is far from immediately possible to identify a cult building. Its facade is more like a Roman senate, not a church. Well, inside you are waiting for luxurious interiors.
Church of San Ignacio (Inglesia de San Ignacio), Av San Ignasio y Colombres. This is the oldest church in the city; the first colonists laid it at the beginning of the XVII century. Now, a small museum and a souvenir shop are opened with her.

Museums Which are worth a visit

There are several dozen museums in Buenos Aires, all of them are interesting in their own way. I chose some of the most noteworthy, in my opinion:

Museum of Latin American Art in Buenos Aires (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, MALBA)Av. Pres. Figueroa Alcorta, 3415. A wonderful place that will allow you to understand how Latin Americans perceive the world. In their art, as well as in their guilt, vivid emotions, integrity and love of life are read. The exposition mainly presents the 20th century from world famous Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo and others, to artists and sculptors unknown outside the continent. Admission is 6.5 USD per adult. The museum is open from 12:00 to 20:00 (until 21:00 on Wednesdays), closed on Thursday.
National Museum of Fine Arts (Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, MNBA), Avenida Del Libertador, 1473. It is much smaller than the previous one, and the exposition is no less interesting. If you have limited time or are not a fan of museums, go here. In just an hour you will see interesting works that are not found anywhere else in the world. Free admission. Opening hours: from 10:00 to 20:00 (from 11:00 on weekends), Monday - a day off at the museum.
Frigate Sarmenito (Fregata Sarmenito), Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo, 980. A 19th-century ship moored in a fashionable area with a preserved interior. Quite an interesting place for both children and adults. Inspection does not take much time (half an hour maximum), and a ticket costs a penny - 0.2 USD. You can board aboard every day from 10:00 to 20:00.

Parks

On the coast and in the city center there are many gardens and parks, ranging from classic to Japanese:

Green spaces in the trendy area of Puerto Modero Separate the city from the ecological zone of Costanero Sur. In search of wildlife, you can go here and have a picnic on the shore of one of the two lagoons (address: Juana Manso, Cdad).
Gardens East of Recoleta Cemeteryin which several wonderful museums are buried (along Av. del Libertador between Av. Callao and Av. Ortiz de Ocampo). Here you can spend a couple of days enjoying the creations of man and nature.

Forests of Palermo, or Park February 3rd (Bosques de Palermo / Parque 3 de Febrero) - one of the most beautiful and comfortable parks. There are lakes, bicycle and pedestrian paths, a planetarium and even the Kholopones Garden (translated as "Japanese Garden"). Residents of the capital like to spend weekends here. Address: Av. Casares, 2966.

Children's Park (Parque de los Niños) - A whole children's paradise in the north of the city. There is something for adults to do: the beach, cafes and sports grounds are at the service of everyone. Address: Int. And PAZ, 1428 CABA.

Tourist streets

It is difficult to name the tourist streets in Buenos Aires, here they operate with the concepts of districts. But, of course, in each district there are main highways around which life revolves:

Alicia Moreau de Justo Street (av. Alicia Moreau de Justo) in the Puerto Modero area. The area is new, so some quarters are still quite boring. Around there are many high-rises, conceptual bridges and fashionable places.
Small the quarter outlined by the streets of Palos, Suarez, Garribaldi and the avenue of Don Pedro de Mendoza in the La Boca area. This is where you can find authentic colored houses.
Picturesque Libertador Avenuethat runs through the areas of Ritiro, Recoleta to Palermo and leads from one park to another along cozy quarters. There are few shops and restaurants, but a lot of greenery and real life.

What to see in 1 day

10:00 - start the morning with the La Boca area. It will be completely deserted: neither annoying tourists, nor scurrying locals - as if descended from a picture about gingerbread houses. You will need no more than 30 minutes to leisurely go around all the interesting neighborhoods.
11:00 - take the coast along the bus to the Puerto Madero area. Here you can spend half an hour on an old ship, and then choose any of the excellent places for lunch.
14:00 - walk on foot past the colonial buildings (it will take about an hour) to the Recoleta area and visit the cemetery of the same name. Allow him another half hour, slowly ponder the eternal.
15:30 - go to the gardens of Palermo (the walk will take only half an hour), have a picnic on the grass, drink a mate and recharge your batteries before a busy evening.
18:00 - Walk on foot along Palermo, looking on the way to the shops of local designers.
20:00 - and, finally, choose the institution you like: a pub, cocktail bar, tango or jazz club.

What to see in the surroundings

San Isidro

A pretty village 28 kilometers north of the center, you can call it a suburb or a remote area of the Bayres agglomeration.

It is worth going because of:

national park in the river delta (hiking and boating),
beautiful cathedral
Villa Ocampo (Villa Ocampo), owned by the famous publisher Victoria Ocampo and turned into a house-museum, preserving the setting of 100 years ago (pictured above).

You can get to San Isidro by tram or metro (line D) to Tigre.

La Plata

Just 50 kilometers from Buenos Aires is this charming town with a Gothic cathedral, an interesting museum of natural sciences and a planetarium.

To get to it, you need to make 1-2 transfers. First, from the Retiro station, take the metro line C to Constitution Square (Pza. Constitución), and there are two options:

transfer by bus directly to La Plata,
transfer to the minibus Constitución-Quilmes and get off at the Bernal stop, from where buses go to the city you need (La Plata will be written on the sign).

The fare will cost approximately 10 USD.

Where else can you go?

Also, within a radius of 100 kilometers from Buenos Aires, there are many interesting places for families with children and for extreme sports (more on this in the corresponding sections below).

hint: Routes to neighboring cities Buenos Aires - Quilmes 16 km Buenos Aires - Tigre 27 km Buenos Aires - Belen de Escobar 47 km Buenos Aires - Colonia del Sacramento 51 km Buenos Aires - La Plata 52 km

Food. What to try

Absolute must have, what you should try in Buenos Aires (and then repeat in all other places in Argentina):

Asado (asado), he is a steak - the most tender piece of cow meat melting in his mouth, which grazed on fresh grass all year round among the endless pampas. It may cost 10 USD (but I would not risk it), the average price in an institution that is not popular for tourists is 30 USD.
Red wine. Like other New World wines, Argentinean cabernets, Sauvignon and Merlot are distinguished by a bright rich taste and aroma. But the most relish is the wine from the Malbec grape variety, the most popular in Argentina. Take what has been done in the province of Mendoza and you won’t be mistaken.
Mate. Since we are talking about drinks, we can not help but remember the one that Argentines drink from morning to evening. They endlessly brew it, relish it and enjoy it. For proper consumption, you need to buy calabash, remember that the first two brews are better to merge, and do not abuse the drink at night: the mate is very invigorating.
Dulche de leche. In general, this is boiled condensed milk, which the Argentines use in various forms as a dessert (cream for cake, ice cream, biscuit filling, etc.). They just adore her, although I still could not understand how you can eat such a sugary sweetness in such heat.

And in Buenos Aires you can find gorgeous pizza, ravioli (Italian cuisine is popular here), Mexican empanadas pies, ice cream and many other delicious things.

Recommended Places

As in all countries of the world, my main advice is to find a really good restaurant or cafe: look for places where local people eat. You may be frightened off by the interior or the service (endure), but the kitchen will never let you down! In addition, prices will be much lower than in promoted establishments.

In order to find such a place, you need to turn off the main street, and it’s better to generally go away from the center to where the locals really live and hang out. In Buenos Aires, look for the best food service in the Palermo area.

Budgetary

A great option for a snack is street food trays. Cheap and very tasty! Usually this is a variety of cakes, sandwiches and variations of shawarma.

Such places are found throughout the city. Look out for those in the queue.

Mid level

As I said, most of the great places are in Palermo, you can choose almost any and not make a mistake. But there are a few particularly good ones:

El farol (Estado de Israel, 4488) - traditional Argentinean cuisine in excellent performance.
Las cholas (Arce, 306; Palermo) - rooftop terrace and great grilled dishes.
Guerrin (Corrientes, 1368) - make excellent pizza, worthy competition of Italy.

Expensive

For those who appreciate the excellent quality of service, sophisticated atmosphere and upscale cuisine:

The grill (at the Marriott Plaza Hotel at av. Florida, 1005) is considered one of the best restaurants in the city. Be sure to try the steak.
Primafila (Puyerredon, 2501) - the best Italian restaurant. Pizza and fresh seafood are especially good.

Holidays

Argentines love fun! They can turn into a holiday even a strike and a demonstration, which are organized regularly on different scales.

In general, it is not surprising that in Buenos Aires something is celebrated almost every month: either a day devoted to the country's culture of one of the many diasporas (from Bolivians to Japanese), then a day of garbage collection, then just a football match or concert turns into a folk festivities.

But the most beloved and large-scale:

Christmas - celebrate from December 24 to 25.
Carnivalwhich takes place every weekend from January to February in the neighboring town of Gualeguaychu (3 hours drive). Unlike a fellow, Rio is not so popular and popular, but much safer and more sincere!
Nation day - Celebrate May 25, the anniversary of the first independent government of Argentina.
independence Day - one of the largest holidays, celebrated on July 9, on the day of signing the Declaration of Independence.
Halloween - It is very popular among the young generation of Argentines, who are happy to transform into zombies, ghouls and other evil spirits.

These days they block the central streets of the city, set up scenes and declare a day off. People dress up in costumes or simply elegant clothes, dance and sing with artists.

Security. What to watch out for

Buenos Aires is a fairly calm and safe city. The Argentines even carry out demonstrations joyfully, with music and songs. The city is very respectful of women and tolerant of sexual minorities, here you can feel relaxed and comfortable.

But, as in any large city, it is worth observing the usual safety rules:

Keep track of your bag and pockets, phone and camera;
Check the change you are given;
Use an official taxi;
Do not walk in the evening in troubled areas;
Leave valuables in a safe.

Things to do

In the multi-million dollar Buenos Aires, everyone will find something to do day and night, regardless of preference. Or you can just walk along the street and meet street musicians, tango dancers, a strike, old people playing chess and join everyone!

Shopping and shops

With shopping in the capital of Argentina, everything is just fine!

I was very lucky: my guide in this difficult matter was a local actress who showed me the best place in the city for shopping. You need the Palermo area, namely the large square outlined by the streets of Raul Scalabrini Ortiz, Santa Fe, Juan Justo and Coronel Niseto Vega Avenue.

Here is a paradise with small boutiques of local designers and discount departments of famous brands. For example, I bought a Furla bag with a 50 percent discount for a fairly humane amount. These neighborhoods are simply full of accessories, shoes, dresses, swimwear and, of course, the famous products made of Argentinean leather ... spend a whole day here, and it will still be enough!

If you want something more familiar, then at your service are many large shopping centers (some of which are located in the center):

"Galerias Pacific" (Galerías Pacífico) at the intersection of Florida and Av. Córdoba is located in a beautiful building and at least therefore deserves a visit. The mall features brands from Valentino to Zara.
"Alto Palermo Shopping" (Alto Palermo Shopping) at the address: Av. Santa Fe, 3253. A huge modern center with an awe-inspiring entrance. The assortment of products is similar, there are a couple of departments of local designers.
Dot Byres (DOT Baires Shopping) - A huge glass colossus on the border between the cultural city and the sleeping areas. Among the presented brands you will find many unfamiliar names, and the quality of things will pleasantly surprise you. Address: Vedia, 3600.

Bars Where to go

For bars, it is also best to go to Palermo. There are bars with a tango show (it’s better not to go, it’s expensive and without a soul), there are beer pubs, there are bars with a stand-up show (there is nothing to do without Spanish) and even bars with Balkan music (unexpectedly!).

Go to Thelonious Jazz Club for jazz (address: Jeronimo Salguero, 1884) - pleasant non-tourist atmosphere, good music and good cuisine.
If you want craft beer, then you are welcome to On Tap Craft Beer (Costa Rica, 5527) - many varieties and crowds of international youth;
Have you planned an evening of cocktails? Then visit the Verne Cocktail Club (Medrano, 1475) - a huge map of the bar. And here there is always someone from the local, which indicates the quality of the institution.

Clubs and nightlife

Clubs in the understanding of the Argentines are bars with music or tango. Clubs with DJs here once or twice and miscalculated. And they may turn out to be gay clubs in the light of the high tolerance of local residents (in Argentina, even gay marriages are allowed).

Good parties take place in clubs:

Niceto club (Av Cnel. Niceto Vega, 551),
Club araoz (Araoz Pedro M., 2424),
Club one (Adolfo Alsina, 940).

All of them are subtly similar to each other: neon shines here, electronic music plays and beautiful girls and boys jump until the morning.

Extreme sports

In Buenos Aires skydiving is extremely popular due to the fact that most of the year the sky over the city is very clear.

To conquer the heights, you can go west of the city to one of two centers:

Skydive center (Ruta 20 km 2, 7130 Chascomús) - 125 kilometers from the city center, you can independently get there by rented car or taxi.
Skydive lobos (Ruta Nacional 205, Buenos Aires, Ruta 205 Km) - 107 kilometers from the center, you can independently get there not only by car, but also by train (although the journey will take about 7 hours). To do this, at Once station, take the train to Moreno, get off at Merlo station, transfer to Lobos and go to Via Leandro N. Alem, 171.

By the way, in these centers you can fly not only by plane, but also by balloon.

If you arrive at one of these airfields on your own, the jump will cost you about 40 USD. If you want to book a tour from the city, then the price can easily turn into 250 USD.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

Absolute must have from Byres:

Mate - invigorating, amazing, unique. Bring everyone a present and with a smart look, teach him to drink correctly. Together with mate, buy calabash from a different and painted tree: both beautiful and practical. You can only get tired of explaining to customs officers in Russia that mate is not drugs :).
Leather products - Argentina is famous for them. And the best samples of bags, belts, jackets flock to the capital. Most of them are in ethnic style, elegantly combined with flying dresses or jeans!
Malbec Wine Bottle. This miracle, of course, is not produced in Buenos Aires, but to leave Argentina without it is a crime!

How to get around the city

Buenos Aires is a big city. Walking from one area to another can take about an hour on foot, but due to traffic jams it can sometimes be even faster than taking a bus or taxi.

One feature of public transport is very inconvenient for tourists: you can pay for the fare only with a single Sube card (costs about 1.5 USD).

They sell it in special places (at stops and metro stations), and replenish the balance at the box office and through the terminal. Moreover, the place of purchase and transfer of funds to the card may not be adjacent to each other. But buying a ticket for one trip will not work: they simply do not exist.

Taxi. What features exist

Official taxis on the meter usually operate at a rate of 1.5 USD per boarding plus 1.5 USD per mile. You can catch them on the street or order in a cafe or hotel. Such cars have a dark green body with yellow marks and a yellow roof.

If you catch a taxi on the street, make sure that the driver has turned on the meter, otherwise the price will unpleasantly surprise you.

Trams

There are trams in Buenos Aires, and the grid of their routes covers the entire city.

This type of transport is popular when traveling to remote areas (therefore, it is mainly used by local people). In the center, it’s more convenient to travel by bus, because they run more often.

A tram will come in handy if you go to the suburbs. For example, in the Tigre district to go for a ride on a catamaran or visit an amusement park. The tram leaves from the Retiro station (Retiro) and is paid with the same Sube card. Standard trip price: 0.2 USD.

Underground

Metro can be found on the sign Subterraneo (Sabterraneo), locals call it short Subte (Sabte).

The metro scheme is quite simple, only 7 lines. For tourists, branches D and C are mainly interesting, the first of which goes along the coast, and the second - from the station towards the historical center.

The metro is open from 5:00 to 22:30 (23:00 on Fridays and Saturdays), the fare is 0.2 USD, payment is also accepted only by Sube card.

At rush hour, the carriages are quite crowded, the rest of the time it is one of the fastest and most comfortable modes of transport.

Buses

Such a connection in Buenos Aires is well developed: many good buses ply on a bunch of different routes. They go round the clock without days off and holidays (with the exception of those cases when they are forced to deviate from the route due to blocked streets).

Buses stop at inconspicuous stops with small signs (be careful). If you are standing at one of these stops and you see the bus you are approaching, it is better to raise your hand, otherwise the driver may pass by.

The main traffic intersection is at Retiro (Retiro) station.

Vehicle rental

Renting a car in Buenos Aires is a bad idea! Traffic jams in the city will not allow you to enjoy your vacation. If you are afraid of the distance between the districts or you plan to go out of town, you can use public transport or a taxi.

But if you have firmly decided to rent a car, then in Argentina all the largest global distributors with standard rental conditions are represented. The only concession is that international law does not require it.

The cost starts from 70 USD per day plus a deposit that is blocked on your card (depending on the class of car and rental time, usually not less than 1,000 USD). You can specify prices and conditions here.

Tips for motorists

Get ready for traffic jams! Including on the outskirts of the city. Therefore, plan your movements, avoiding morning and evening traffic jams (from 8:00 to 10:00 and from 17:00 to 19:00).

With a sharp drop in speed (traffic jam, police post or for another reason), Argentinean drivers turn on the emergency light.

They ride with a classic Latin America slight disregard for the rules, but they are not rude and do not create chaos as in Southeast Asia.

Vacation with children

Buenos Aires has many great places for children:

Children's Museum (El Museo de los Niños)Av. Corrientes, 3247. Its huge plus is that it is located in a large shopping center, where mothers can safely spend half a day while their children are busy in the museum. Open from 10:00 to 18:00, entrance costs 10 USD.
ChildrenSky Park (Parque de los Niños), Int. And PAZ, 1428 CABA. To the north of the Palermo area on the shores of the lagoon there is an excellent park for children. A good bonus on hot days - sunbeds and umbrellas for relaxation. The entrance is free.
Temaken (Temaikèn), Ruta 25 Km 1, B 1625 Belén de Escobar. Located 50 kilometers from the city, the “biopark” is a zoo with huge aviaries and a recreated natural environment, as well as playgrounds. You can spend a whole week there watching the animals: the park is spread over 178 acres! It’s a crime to stay here for less than one day. Opening hours: from 10:00 to 19:00, a ticket costs about 5 USD.
Coastal Park (Parque de la Costa), Vivanco, 1509, B1648AAB Tigre. An amusement park on the shore of the lagoon, it works only on the weekend (from Friday to Sunday) from 11:00 to 19:00. Ticket price from 10 USD.
Republic of Children (República de los Niños), La Plata. Another great amusement park is located 50 kilometers south of Buenos Aires. He works all week from 10:00 to 18:00, and on the weekend from 9:00 to 19:00. The ticket is very cheap - 1.2 USD, and for children under 7 years old and completely free.